Thursday, August 14, 2014

"Shiny Happy People" - also known as my dinner at Hermann's


Disclaimer: I'm quickly realizing this blog will mostly act as a receptacle for my various thoughts and musings on this journey. So, if it's boring or mundane or superfluous to you, dear reader, just know that I don't care. I'm writing this for myself, first and foremost, so that I don't forget the small moments that will truly make this year a unique experience. But if you do enjoy reading my unspoken thoughts, please, continue! Disclaimer over!

I didn't think it was possible to fall in love with an inanimate object, but I think it happened to me last night. Well, it was more a place than an object, but that's just semantics. Last night, my family and I dined at a small, cozy restaurant called Hermann's. We arrived around 8:30 PM. Two or three tables were occupied at this hour, and it was pretty drafty, given there were two entrances and exit doors and not many people inside. The bread was stale and not served with butter. At first I thought, "great...I'm starving and I can't even bite into this damn baguette, it's so old". But I began to notice the restaurant quickly fill up, and at about 9:00/9:30, it was absolutely full to capacity. I admired the tables of people, and how diverse the clientele was, in age, socio-economic class, gender, etc. I also was in awe of how the entire night I did not see even one glow from a cellular device (except for my own, taking dorky tourist pictures of how absolutely charming the place was). Even the "younger crowd" present at Hermann's was totally immersed in their own conversations, free of the cell-phone. Seeing old people out and about after 6 PM was very inspirational. It was, in a word, awesome. Another thing that I noticed was that at this restaurant, all the servers were at least 35+. Our waiter in particular was about 65 years old. 

*Tangent* I can confidently say, as a blanket statement, that waiters are all males, and older in age. When you try and say "thank you", if they bring you water or bread, etc, they say "No, no, of course, it's no problem at all". The waiting staff takes their job very, very seriously. They're incredibly nice, but not in the traditional American way where they smile really big and make small talk and act super nice. They are just very professional and elegant and serious when doing their job. I believe that many waiters start in their late 20's or 30's and continue for the rest of their lives. It is very much a respected and viable career option here. I bussed my plates the first day in Buenos Aires and they were offended that I did that because their job is to do everything. It's interesting and new to be waited on in such a detailed manner. It's a definite contrast to what I'm used to in the States, but it makes you feel very special :) *Tangent over*.

He reminded me of Dusty from Wes Anderson's film, The Royal Tenenbaums, but less smiley and more dignified. He took all five of our orders, all from memory (as most waiters do), and returned about 20 minutes later with piping hot food. I ordered Bife a la chorizo, the most typical cut of Argentine steak, and French fries. When Dusty served our food, it all came, quite literally, on a silver platter. It was beautiful. He took my steak with tongs, set it on my plate, spooned up the excess steak juice from the platter, and gently ladled it on my plate. He did the same with all the other meals, took the main course from the silver platter and placed it on the plate. My mom ordered Ravioli con pollo, and after swiping a few noodles I determined it was some of the Italian food I have ever eaten (Argentina is 15% Italian heritage and home to the best Italian food in world, except for Italy itself). Furthermore, the meal was the most homemade-tasting food I have eaten here so far. That, plus the wonderful ambience, made for an incredibly homey and comfortable atmosphere. As I looked around the restaurant, I saw that everyone was laughing, drinking wine and beer by the bottle, cracking jokes left and right. People were hugging and kissing friends they were meeting for dinner as if they hadn't seen each other in years. It was beautiful to sit and watch people interact this way, with so much love, happiness, and touching. Men kiss men, women kiss men, women kiss women, everyone hugs, it's wonderful. Everything was delicious, salty, and real. As our meal was winding down, an older couple walked into the restaurant. The man was walking with a cane, wore a woolen cap, and wore the most genuine smile I've ever seen. His wife was absolutely stunning. She had magnificent white hair, rosy cheeks, and very simple makeup that highlighted her natural beauty. Her combed hair was pinned back with a diamond and ruby clip. They glanced around the restaurant, only to see that no table was available. Their faces appeared as if to say, "We got all dressed up for nothing?" They looked so forlorn, my heart wanted to break right there on the spot. But fortunately, a table for two occupied by another couple just a bit younger opened up and the old couple looked so happy to sit down and enjoy a meal at Hermann's. Right away, they ordered a bottle of Malbec and I thought to myself, "good for you guys" :) Sitting in Hermann's was the most content I have felt so far. It was a wonderful evening, which made me thankful for food (good food), friends, family, beef, and even stale bread.


-G

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